What Is Nswaa? The Ugandan Edible Termites Explained
Nswaa are edible termites, a seasonal, protein-rich Ugandan delicacy fried or sun-dried until crunchy and savoury. Here is what they are and how they are eaten.
African Stores Editorial Team
The short answer
Nswaa are edible termites, sometimes called white ants or enswa, a much loved seasonal delicacy in Uganda that is harvested around the rains when the winged termites swarm. They are protein-rich and are usually sun-dried, roasted, or fried with a little onion, chilli, tomato and salt until crunchy, nutty and savoury. Enjoyed as a snack or a side across many regions, they are a taste that many Ugandans look forward to all year. In the UK the aromatics to cook them, and sometimes dried edible insects themselves, are sold by African food shops, which you can find near you on African Stores.
What to remember
- Nswaa are edible termites, also known as white ants or enswa.
- They are a seasonal delicacy, harvested when the winged termites swarm with the rains.
- They are protein-rich, and are sun-dried, roasted, or fried with onion, chilli and salt.
- They are crunchy, nutty and savoury, eaten as a snack or a side dish.
- Nswaa are termites, which makes them different from nsenene, the seasonal grasshoppers.
Few foods carry the excitement of the first rains quite like nswaa. When the winged termites rise in their clouds after a downpour, families across Uganda go out to gather them, and children learn early how to catch the swarms by lamplight. It is a moment of the year, a small seasonal event that turns into a treat everyone waits for.
There is deep affection in a handful of freshly fried nswaa, crunchy and warm, shared straight from the pan. They belong to particular months and particular skies, so eating them is bound up with the memory of home, of a compound after the rain and the smell of them crisping over the fire. For Ugandans in Britain, a plate of nswaa is a way to hold on to that feeling and to pass it to the next generation.
What Nswaa Actually Is
Nswaa is the Ugandan name for edible termites, the winged termites that swarm in great numbers after heavy rain. They are also called white ants in English, and enswa in Luganda, and they are treated as a genuine delicacy rather than a novelty. Rich in protein and fat, they have a mild, nutty, savoury flavour and a satisfying crunch once cooked, which is why so many people count them among the best things about the rainy season.
Gathering nswaa is a seasonal skill. The termites emerge from their mounds and take to the air at particular times, drawn to light, so people set up simple traps and lamps to collect them in the evening. Because they appear only for a short window, they are prized while they last, and they sit proudly among the wider dishes of Ugandan food as one of its most distinctive seasonal treats.
How Nswaa Differs From Nsenene
It is easy to lump all of Uganda's edible insects together, but nswaa and nsenene are not the same thing. Nswaa are termites, winged insects that swarm out of the ground with the rains, whereas nsenene are the green and brown bush grasshoppers gathered in their own well known seasons, chiefly around November and April. Different insect, different season, and slightly different flavour and texture, though both are loved.
The two are often spoken of in the same breath because they are both prized seasonal insects, caught in large numbers and cooked in similar ways. But a Ugandan will always know which is which. Nsenene are the grasshoppers of the swarming grasshopper months, while nswaa are the termites that follow the rain, so when someone talks about going out to gather nswaa they mean the winged termites, not the grasshoppers.
How Nswaa Is Made and Served
Once gathered, nswaa are cleaned and their wings are removed, then they are cooked in one of a few simple ways. Many people sun-dry them so they keep, and dried nswaa can be stored and eaten later. Fresh, they are often dry-roasted in a pan until crisp, or fried with a little onion, chilli, tomato and salt so the seasoning clings to them. Whichever way they are done, the aim is that clean, crunchy, nutty result that makes them so moreish as a snack or a side alongside other dishes.
A gentle note on allergens is worth making. Nswaa are edible insects, and insect proteins can cross-react with other allergens, so anyone with a shellfish or dust-mite allergy should be cautious the first time they try them. This is general information rather than medical advice, and anyone who is unsure should check with a health professional. For everyone else, nswaa are a nourishing, protein-rich food that has been enjoyed safely for generations.
Where to Buy Nswaa Ingredients in the UK
Nswaa are first and foremost a seasonal, gathered food, so fresh termites are not something you pick up on a British high street. What you can find in the UK are the simple aromatics used to cook them, onion, tomato, fresh chilli and salt, all sold by African food shops, and from time to time shops serving Ugandan and East African customers do stock dried edible insects. It is always worth asking behind the counter, as availability comes and goes. You can find African food stores near you to see what is nearby and to talk to shopkeepers who know the season.
Frequently asked questions
What is nswaa?
Nswaa are edible termites, also called white ants or enswa, a seasonal Ugandan delicacy harvested when the winged termites swarm after rain. They are protein-rich and are usually sun-dried, roasted, or fried with a little onion, chilli, tomato and salt until crunchy, nutty and savoury. They are eaten as a snack or a side dish and are loved across many regions of Uganda.
What do nswaa taste like?
Nswaa are mild, nutty and savoury with a satisfying crunch once cooked. Because they are rich in protein and fat, they are filling and moreish, especially when fried with onion, chilli and salt so the seasoning clings to them. Many Ugandans count them among the best treats of the rainy season.
What is the difference between nswaa and nsenene?
Nswaa are termites, winged insects that swarm out of the ground with the rains, while nsenene are the green and brown bush grasshoppers gathered chiefly around November and April. They are different insects caught in different seasons, though both are prized and cooked in similar ways. A Ugandan will always know which is which.
How are nswaa cooked?
After the wings are removed, nswaa are cleaned and then sun-dried to keep, dry-roasted in a pan until crisp, or fried with a little onion, chilli, tomato and salt. The aim is a clean, crunchy, nutty result. Because they are edible insects, anyone with a shellfish or dust-mite allergy should be cautious the first time, as insect proteins can cross-react.
Where can I buy nswaa ingredients in the UK?
Fresh nswaa are a seasonal gathered food, so what you buy in the UK are the aromatics to cook them, onion, tomato, fresh chilli and salt, from African food shops, which sometimes also stock dried edible insects. It is worth asking behind the counter, as availability changes with the season. African Stores lists African and Caribbean food shops across the UK, so you can find one near you and speak to shopkeepers who know when stock comes in.